Showing posts with label Russia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Russia. Show all posts

Wednesday, November 28, 2012

The Battle of Berezina

Two hundred years ago, from November 25th through to 29th, the final battle of Napoleon's 1812 Russian Campaign occurred at the crossing of the Berezina River.

The French army was in full retreat from Moscow, forced to retrace the same route as they had traveled in the summer. With no foraging possible for man or beast, horses and humans were dying as they marched. The cavalry was virtually afoot and hundreds of supply wagons were abandoned.  (It was not the bitter Russian winter that did them in, it was starvation.  Severe winter never came to Russia until after the French were in Poland).

The Berezina River was the last major crossing before the safety of the  Polish border.  Roughly 40,000 French soldiers and 40,000 civilian followers or non-combatants arrived at the river November 25th.  They planned on crossing on the ice and Napoleon had ordered all bridge construction materials destroyed a few days previously.  However, unseasonable warmth meant the river was thawed and impassable. The only bridge at Borisov had been blown by the Russians.

The Russian army had 34,000 men under Chichagov on the west bank of the Berezina while Wittgenstein was approaching from the north with 30,000.  Kutuzov was following about 40 km behind with another 54,000 soldiers.  The plan was to trap and destroy the French army and capture Napoleon.

From Wikipedia 
Napoleon sent Odinot south on the 25th with enough soldiers to draw Chichagov's force , believing the French intended to escape to the south.  It worked.  In the meantime, as not all bridge materials had been destroyed, the engineers set to work building two 100 meter bridges across the icy water at a ford near Studenka, further north.  By the 26th, the bridges were complete and enough French forces and cannon across to hold the bridgehead when Chichagov realized he had been had.

Victor was left behind to fight rear guard against Wittgenstein's army and on the night of the 29th, the last survivors made their way across the bridges.  Those non-combatants who had not managed to cross were left behind to the tender mercies of the Cossacks. Estimates of French and Russian losses vary widely but French losses ranged from 15,000 to 25,000 combatants and 10,000 to 20,000 civilian non-combatants.

From Wikipedia
Napoleon had been campaigning on two fronts in 1812 and loosing both (Wellington's army and Spanish guerrillas were chasing the Grande Armee all over Spain).  Plots were hatching to dump Napoleon who had to leave the remnants of his army at Berezina and hurry home to save his throne.

The Battle of Berezina was a strategic success for Napoleon as he escaped and his troops were not completely annihilated, leaving sufficient to rebuild his army the following year. The Russians failed to stop him because they really were not that committed to doing so, while the French were fighting for their lives.

Kutuzov, who did not arrive in time, never had any intent whatsoever to do so.  If he had had his way, not a single Russian soldier would have lost his life fighting Napoleon. Kutuzov realized that Napoleon was beaten as soon as he crossed into Russia, that distance and weather would do the army's work for them.  His objective was simply to clear the last French soldier out of Russia and they were going.

Russia's failure to stop Napoleon at Berezina resulted in two more years of war plus the "100 days" in 1815 before Napoleon was finally finished. 

Sunday, March 4, 2012

Voting Day in Russia

The citizens of the Russian Federation went to the polls today to re-elect Putin for a third term (6 years this time) as president.  He needs more than 50% in this round to avoid a second round of voting.  As if that is a problem.  Three of his opponents are professional losers, though Zyuganov of the Communist Party is the favoured protest vote.  No credible liberal candidates were allowed to run and the oligarch running as an independent will be lucky if his own mother votes for him.

After the protests of December and February over the rampant fraud in the Duma elections, Putin spent a BILLION dollars installing CCTV cameras in all the polling stations.  One of his buddies made half a billion on that, I expect, but not much else will come of it.  My guess is only the Election Commission will be allowed to see the films and we all know THEY won't see anything untoward.  Putin will claim then, that he won fair and square.  Yeah, right.

According to BBC, carousel voting (busing people from polling station to polling station), which is pretty easy to detect, is going all out in Moscow, Novosibirsk and Barnaul and likely in other places to, though they didn't mention it. When the BBC report was filed, already some 3000 instances of fraud had been documented by independent observers.

Not surprised about Novosibirsk.  I think that was the city which banned demonstrations by toys.  Seems that no one could get approval for a demonstration so some enterprising soul put protest signs on toys and set them out in the square.  Naughty, naughty.

The opposition is already organized for protests tomorrow, however so is the Kremlin, having imported 6000 extra police from the hinterland.  I imagine that Putin will be no more Mr. Nice Guy now that the election is over and any and all protests will be brutally crushed.  I don't expect any of the militia brought in will "refuse to fire on their own people".  These are the folks that brought you Stalin, after all.

Harper and GOP, you keep interesting company.

Monday Morning Update: Putin wins with 60% of the vote and a 68% turnout.  Exit polls match the actual count.   A major difference this time is that the opposition candidates are not going quietly, according to BBC.

Friday, December 30, 2011

Sergei Mikhailovich Prokudin-Gorskii - Colour Photographer of the Russian Empire

Today's blog is a result of a friend of mine posting a link to photos of Sergei Mikhailovich Prokudin-Gorskii on Facebook. If anyone is interested in colour photographs of the Russian Empire in the last years before the Revolution, this man's work is incredible.  In the days before colour film, he invented a process combining three monochrome photos in red, green and blue, then merging them to make a colour photograph.

Twenty pictures are shown at the bottom of the Wikipedia article linked to above and 86 at this link here.

Thursday, April 28, 2011

Domodedevo Airport

We arrived in Moscow at 9:00 am and by 12:30 we had grabbed a bite of breakfast and navigated the Metro and electric train from Kursk railway station to Domodedevo Airport.  It is a modern new airport terminal that would be at home in any big city in the world.  Found a wifi spot, downloaded emails and my old computer ran out of battery.  So we found a bench and slept.  Had supper at 5:00 and just now (6:00) we found a great little coffee shop that has plug ins for laptops as one of their sales features so I am having coffee and Tanya is wandering.  We don't have enough rubles for her to shop in an airport.  I did find a nice watch I really liked in on of those shops that doesn't post prices...I guess not.


First time I was in Domodedevo airport was 20 years ago this month.  My first international trip.  It was still the Soviet Union in those days.  I will blog about that trip sometime.  Domodedevo was a hellhole in those days.  Domestic traffic only.   Sort of like a really old very busy bus depot in a poor section of a big city.  No seats, no service, no nothing. You needed high rubber boots to go into the toilets.  Tanya was through it many times with her kids in those days and remembers it well.  In summer people sat out on the grass.  It was cold when we were there and our plane was 5 or 6 hours late.  We sat inside on our luggage in the tea shop with hundreds of other people.

At 4:00 our plane left for Almaty Kazhakstan. In those times all flights were scheduled for night so passengers couldn't look out the window and learn anything they shouldn't.  Like the presence of large cities that weren't marked on any maps.  I don't know what they thought the U2 flights and then the satellites were doing all that time but anyhow...In Uralsk, I got busted for taking a picture of a bridge.

Tuesday, April 26, 2011

So you know where we are going

Click to expand so you can actually read it.

From the left - first red arrow is Dnipropetrovsk, next red arrow is Moscow.  Then look waaaay over.  Top red arrow is Krasnoyarsk (city of 1 million).  Middle red arrow is Abakan where we are headed.  The bottom red arrow is the city, Kyzyl, we visited in 2006 where Tanya's cousin Kolya lives.  We will not likely go there this time though the drive through the mountains is lovely.

We leave tomorrow morning (April 27) from the house at 9:00 by taxi to the bus station in Zhovti Vody and catch a minibus at 9:40 to Dnipropetrovsk, arriving a bit before 11:00.  Our train leaves at 2:15 and we get into Moscow at 10:00 next morning (April 28th).  Our plane doesn't leave for Krasnoyarsk until about 11:00 at night, arriving at 7:30 am the next morning.  Four and a half hour flight and three hour time difference. 

Then we catch a bus for Abakan which will take 5 or 6 hours, not sure.  it is just over 400 km so depending on how many stops.  The road is actually good as it was new five years ago. We should be in Abakan some time on the afternoon of April 29th.  A few hours over two days. 

We could fly direct to Abakan from Moscow but it is double the price so we fly to Krasnoyarsk.  We could take the train the whole way but it is four days instead of two. It is a long way.

Monday, April 25, 2011

Magnitsky vs Kaspersky

When you read about the Magnitsky case you get a pretty good idea of Russian Police and Tax Departments.  The police are not there to prevent or solve crimes, though they sometimes do, they are there to control the people.  As they have been since Tsarist times and were more so in Stalinist times, certainly.  In return, they are allowed to engage in criminal activity, presumably to secure their continued loyalty in spite of poor wages.

The Tax Department is there to control enemies.  Big powerful ones, worth billions, like Khodorkovsky and small fry at the local level as well. The tax laws are so contradictory that everyone is on contravention and selective audits are all it takes to land one in trouble with "the law".  Of course, in Khodorkovsky's case, what they don't find they make up.

I was told it was Peter the Great who came up with the idea of a lowly paid bureaucracy which supplemented its income through corruption however it could. Putin seems to have taken it to new levels.  Whether Medvedev is complicit or powerless is anyone's guess.

The most recent information on the Magnitsky story is here.Russia's Crime of the Century - By Jamison Firestone | Foreign Policy.  It is good reading if you like gruesome crime stories.

I was pleased to read that the police had rescued Yevgeny Kaspersky's son from his kidnappers.  Obviously the kidnappers were amateurs and Kaspersky has some political clout.

Tuesday, March 29, 2011

Why we need a Greenhouse

Tanya went to Dnipropetrovs'k today to pick up my invitation from her sister in Abakan. It was sent by DHL to the tune of $50 which is an improvement over last time when it was $100. DHL has an office in Dnipro and do not do inter country delivery, so we have to pick it up. I will head out at 11:30 tonight for Kyiv to put in my application for a Russian visa.

I would love to know what takes a month to get a personal invitation from a family member? The application for an invitation went to the local OVIR which is the police department that registers all residents, permanent or if foreign, temporary. Since Luda is no longer working outside the home, the invitation had to be done by my brother in law. Do they check out Luda and Valerie? Do they check me out more thoroughly than if I were simply a tourist or going on business? In the latter situations ostensibly you are under the "control" of a tourist agency or an approved business.

It is comforting to know that Russian xenophobia is many centuries old and not just a carry over from Soviet times. Also, I just learned from another book I am reading "Holy Madness - Romantics, Patriots and Revolutionaries 1776-1871" by Adam Zamoyski, that the idea that the West is plotting against Russia is also at least a couple of centuries old. "From the early 1840's, the Slavophiles propagated the twin notions of a great Western Conspiracy to crush Russia and of a noxious Western 'disease' threatening to undermine her spirituality." So it isn't Nicholas, Stalin, nor Putin.  It is Mother Russia.

We will be gone to the end of April and Tanya is worried about her garden.  She moved most of her plants to the passageway between the house and outbuilding where they are cold but not freezing, just to delay their growth.  The tomatoes are shooting upwards and all the other tiny plants are doing well too so it may look like  jungle when we get back.  Katya and Yuri will stay here while we are away.  Katya will look after the plants and Yuri will be repairing our kitchen sink drain which plugged solid or collapsed a few months back and has been waiting for spring to repair. He will have to run an entirely new pipe.  Above ground and above the cement.  Pictures later I hope.

Here is why we need a greenhouse.  We are looking for the person in Zhovti Vody who builds them but he moved and we haven't found his new location yet.

Plants are started in a flat box covered with plastic wrap then transplanted
into individual cups when they are big enough
They were growing very well in the front entry by the window and radiator. 
Too well to last until May to put in the garden.


Some of the tomatoes
The black stacking crates were 50 cents so we bought 13 (all they had).
The community garden area.  It was cold, foggy and wet this morning. 
Snow from last night still on the ground in patches.

Wednesday, March 23, 2011

A great website about Russia

I just found the Russian Sphinx blog site with the most awesome graphics of information about Russia and the rest of the world too. Pays to read the comments on The Economist articles.  The Daily Chart was of arms exporters and importers and one of the commenters linked to this http://russiansphinx.blogspot.com/2011/03/military-budgets-by-country-and-for.html

Other posts this month:  Even if you don't care about Russia check out the graphics

Thursday, February 17, 2011

Russian Visa Application Time

Page 1
Tanya and I are going to visit her family in Abakan, Khakasia, Russia the last week of March and returning when they throw us out.  Which is to say, depending on what I can get for a visa.  Canadians are now required to fill out the USA application form which you can have a look at here or in the pictures. I've gotten approval for bank loans with less information.

If I get a tourist visa, I will get an invitation from a registered tour company in Moscow, stating which cities I am traveling to.  As long as I get a stamped statement from a hotel in one of these cities that I actually stayed there (usually for a fee), I can go where I want, more or less.  If I get into trouble then I am in trouble but if not, then the paperwork is in order and all is well.  A tourist visa is for a maximum of one month.  And they state the EXACT dates in and out.  Anything changes and it is start all over time.

Page 2
If I get a "homestay" visa, then I need an invitation issued by the Department of the Interior or whatever in the city of my relatives. Tanya's sister has to go to the OVIR police who handle that (all documents are handled by police, even in Ukraine) and have an ORIGINAL invitation sent by courier or telexed (they still have them here) to the Consulate in Kyiv.  That can be for up to three months. 

There is now apparently a provision for a long term multi-entry visa; not sure how many entries or for how many years but we will know more tomorrow as Luda will go to the OVIR office with the forms and documents I emailed her today. Multi-entry would sure be nice as the visa application process is not much fun and takes a lot of time.  Two long days travel to and from Kyiv to apply and collect the visa plus hefty application fees.

 From what I have been reading, fear of things foreign has been a Russian trade mark for centuries.  Police surveillance of foreigners did not begin with the Soviet Union, though it certainly was perfected at that time.  It is still more or less a police state in that they do NOT want people coming in and stirring the pot in any way.  There are those who are only too anxious to assist in the establishment of democracy, read "a government more friendly to their financial interests, not necessarily those of Russia". That also explains the crackdown on NGOs from a few years back.  I can't speak the language and have not got huge amounts of cash to subvert people with so I hope they don't get too owl-y with me.

Stay tuned.

Thursday, February 10, 2011

Russian Travel Guide TV

We got out satellite dish retuned the other day and now have several new channels.  Tonight we were watching a documentary channel called Russian Travel Guide TV.  There is also a Russian variant.

The home page give instructions for satellite pick up and it also says that many European cables are carrying it now.  I am sure if you know how you can get it on your computer but don't ask me how to do that.  There are lots of YouTube type clips to watch too but haven't checked that out yet.

You could spend the rest of your life in Russia and never run out of new things to see in whatever category you like - palaces, old churches and museums, historical sites (Borodino, for example), breathtaking scenery; adventure stuff like hiking, rafting, climbing; animal or bird watching.  For those of you who would love to visit this beautiful country but can't afford the time or money, this is the next best thing.  We watched tonight about the Russian bears on Kamchatka salmon fishing during a spawning run.  (And while one was eating a big salmon Tanya said "Save some for me").  These bears are big bruisers.  Near relatives to the Alaskan Kodaks

Kamchatka is on our list of places to visit.  I think it will be cheaper to fly there from Vancouver than from Kyiv so we may do an around the world ticket sometime.

Friday, January 21, 2011

The Romanov Dynasty

The Romanov Dynasty was to rule Imperial Russia from 1613 to 1917. It was, as they say, interesting times.  Years ago, before there was any inkling of future ties to Ukraine and Russia, I began reading Russian history, simply because the country has always fascinated me. Three excellent books introduced me to the Romanovs: 
Peter the Great by Robert K MassieCatherine, Empress of all the Russias by Vincent Kronin;  and
The Shadow of the Winter Palace; Russia's drift to revolution 1925 - 1917 by Edward Crankshaw.  I do need to reread the last one as it has been a while.

Having waded through 1050 pages of Tolstoy's War and Peace followed by Richard Riehn's 1812: Napoleon's Russian Campaign, I figured I needed some "lighter reading" so I tackled Imperial Legend by Alexis Troubetskoy, a biography of Alexander I who reigned as Tsar from 1801, on the assassination of his father, Paul son of Catherine the Great, until his "death" in 1825.  The book, written by a descendant of high ranking Russian nobility (one of whom was one of the Decembrists) explores the very strong circumstantial evidence that Alexander I, with the connivance of his family staged his death to escape the throne as abdication was impossible for a reigning Tsar.  He allegedly reappeared some years later in Siberia as Feodor Kuzmich, a wandering mendicant or "starets" who died in Tomsk in 1864.  The murder of his father and his indirect involvement preyed on Alexander's mind all his life and it is argued that in his desire for peace of mind and true salvation of his soul, that he "disappeared" at the peak of his power and spent the rest of his life as a hermit, in penance.

Alexander I was succeeded by his younger brother Nicholas I, followed by Alexander II and III and finally Nicholas II, whose 1967 biography, Nicholas and Alexandra by Robert K Massie, I am working my way through just now.

An interesting note:  the Ipatiev House in Yekaterinburg where Tsar Nicholas II, the last of the Romanovs and his family spent their final days before their brutal murders in 1918 bears the same name as the Ipatiev Monastery where Mikhail I, the first of the Romanov dynasty, hid out during The Time of Troubles

Putin's Palace

Check out these digs being built for Vladimir Putin in southern Russia.  And he isn't even a Romanov.
This source says the money is "donated" by Russian businessmen.  Part of the price for not being "investigated" by  the tax police like Khodorkovsky?

Monday, December 27, 2010

Russian Justice - Putin Style

The Economist had an excellent article in their Dec 9 issue. http://www.economist.com/node/17674075 .  Read the comments too. I got to 80 out of about 160.  The pro-Russian comments start coming out after about 40th letter. some are hilarious.

No surprise that Khodorkovsky was found guilty today.  It would have been a brave judge indeed who would have found him innocent.  Khodorkovsky was at one time the richest man in Russia, owner of Yukos Oil, which he acquired much the same way as the other oligarchs acquired their assets in the wild west free-for-all that was 1990's Russia under Yeltsen.  His mistake was opposing Putin vocally and monetarily, speaking out in favour of rule of law and funding real opposition parties.

He was charged with and found guilty of tax fraud seven years ago and has one more year to serve of his sentence.  The amount of the taxes he was accused on not paying was huge, so huge as to defy belief.  Certainly he was guilty of tax fraud.  Russian tax laws are numerous enough, vague enough and contradictory enough that once given the go ahead to take someone out, the Tax Police have no trouble getting a conviction on any one.  At any rate the Russian people supported his being found guilty because he was one of the oligarchs who stole everything. 

When his sentence was drawing near to the end, there was no way he would be allowed back on the street.  This time he was charged with stealing virtually ALL the oil his company produced and laundering the proceeds.  This of course totally negates the first charge because if he stole all the oil then Yukos would have had no income to pay taxes on.  The methodology of Stalin's show trials of the 1930's continues to be useful.  Khodorkovsky will be no problem to Putin until 2017. If he survives another 7 years in prison.

No question that Khodorkovsky is not a nice person.  Following his tracks backwards would lead one to all sorts of crimes as he put his empire together.  If those were the reasons he were in prison, no one would complain.  But all of his oligarch colleagues who played the game, supported Putin either directly or indirectly by doing nothing are quite safe even though they are just as guilty of the same crimes as Khodorkovsky.

Berezovsky, another oligarch who had a falling out with Putin is "safe" in England, where he continues to infuriate Putin by speaking out against the criminal element that is Russian governance.  The Russians have charged him with tax evasion.  The Brits have rightfully refused to extradite him because they know full well no one cares about his tax evasion but they care about his opposition to Putin.

Sunday, November 7, 2010

Pictures from Chukotka in the far north east of Russian Federation

Our friend Volodya from P'yatikhatki did some consulting work for a gold mining company in the Autonomous Region of Chukotka in the far NE of Russia. Anadyr-Ugolnyye Kopi is the only settlement of note I could find on Google Earth so I am thinking that may be where he flew in.  Certainly it is near the ocean.  The Chukchi are the aboriginal people.  In winter they cross the Bering strait where it is fairly narrow to visit relatives in Alaska and in return receive American Eskimos (Dene?).  The army don't know where to look to keep them from crossing and likely don't care either.

You can see Volodya's pictures here. http://foto.mail.ru/mail/valdemarr2/-/slideshow 

I hope this works. Not sure if they are password protected or not but I can open them on my computer.

Thursday, September 30, 2010

Governance in the Russian Federation

This is simply a series of links for those who care to read them to give you an insight into "Sovereign Democracy" as then-President Putin described it.  The difference between  Democracy and Sovereign Democracy being the difference between a chair and an electric chair as some wag put it.  The trigger for this blog is the recent firing of Moscow's Mayor Luzhkov by President Medvedev. 

During the Yeltsin years, mayors and regional governors were directly elected however Putin put a stop to that in 2004.  He has been criticized by the West for this as "undoing democratic reforms", however these regional people tended to be elected using their own version of Sovereign Democracy.  They created their own private fiefdoms which they used as power bases and pillaged at will.  They were answerable to no one and accountable for nothing.  At least now they are accountable to Mr. Putin, whose authorization was undoubtedly needed for Luzhkov's termination. 

I leave you to draw your own conclusions about Luzhkov's business dealings, his wife's real estate billions and the whole issue of corruption in Russian politics. 

The last two links concern those who have attempted to investigate corruption and Human Rights abuses.  You may also want to Google Anna Politkovskaya and Natalya Estemirova. 

Medvedev sacks Luzhkov - Interfax.com

Moscow Mayor Yuri Luzhkov sacked by President Medvedev - BBC

Analysis - Moscow mayor's messy exit is no Medvedev triumph - Yahoo News UK

 Sacked Moscow mayor fears return to Stalinism - CNN

In shift, Kremlin reopens cases of Russian reporters' unsolved murders - Christian Science Monitor

Russian journalists face violence, intimidation - Christian Science Monitor

 

Thursday, September 23, 2010

24 Hours from Tulsa

A one-day round trip to Kyiv by train takes me 23 1/2 hours door to door.  Yesterday I applied for a Russian visa from the Consulate in Kyiv.  Left the house at 11:30 pm on Tuesday, Andrei took me to the station at P'yatikhatki where I caught the 0040 train to Kyiv.  Top bunk and hellishly hot so I didn't sleep much if at all.  My ticket was for a bottom bunk but the old Babushka and her young grandson needed it worse than I as she could never have climbed into the top bunk which was supposedly hers.  The trains are full these days for some reason.

Got into Kyiv at 7:00 am and went to McDonald's at the station to grab a couple of Egg Mcmuffins and kill 3 hours using their WiFi.  Was lucky to get a seat near a plug-in as the computer battery is so old it won't hold more than 45 minutes charge.  Took the Metro to within 1/2 block of the consulate and had the application paperwork all done by 11:30.  Cost varies with turnaround time.  I needed 48 hours so it cost me $225 USD.

Getting a Russian visa is not simple.  It requires an ORIGINAL letter of invitation, which unless you are a tourist, must be issued by the Federal Migration Service or Ministry of the Interior or some super important agency.  This takes time, which we don't have as I need at least two or three weeks in Khakasia for this project and must be out of Russia by Oct 20 OR delay the entire process six weeks while I get a new passport and a new letter of invitation.  Theoretically the letter of invitation must be requested by the client in Khakasia and issued by the appropriate office in Khakasia.  Takes too long, so the client called in some contacts and my letter of invitation was duly issued by...The Olympic Committee of Russia in Moscow.  Doh.

Went to TGI Fridays for lunch.  Buffalo wings, fries covered in melted cheese (not quite Poutine but...), Hot Fudge Brownie Delight (sounds perverted to me) and two pints of Murphy's.  The latter cost me $6.50 each which I didn't realize when I ordered them.  Flown in from Ireland, I guess. 

Now I needed tickets to come back Friday to get my passport and visa.  Friday is a BAD day to travel.  Our taxi driver friend Kostia was enlisted to help me get tickets.  Got one for the night train same as before but nothing to return unless I stay over.  Kostia knows people and will meet me Friday morning at the station with a first class ticket on the evening express.  I pay him well.

Caught the 5:45 Kyiv-Dnipropetrovs'k Express and was in P'yatikhatki Stikova station by 10:00 and home by 11:00.  I leave again tonight at 11:30 pm to repeat the process Friday.  Two full days of my time* to get a visa for a project that does not yet have a contract.  More Doh.



*A traveling salesman is walking down a country road, and passes a farm. In the middle of the field he sees a farmer, standing under an apple tree. The farmer holds a pig in his arms. The salesman stops and watches as the farmer walks around the tree with the pig, and holds it up so that the pig can eat an apple right off of a tree branch. Amazed, the salesman sees the farmer lift the pig so that it can eat about four apples in this manner.
“Mr. Farmer,” yells the salesman, “wouldn’t it take a lot less time if you just put the pig on the ground, and let him eat the apples that have fallen off of the tree?”
The farmer pauses in his work, turns to the salesman and says, “Well, maybe, but really, what’s time to a pig?”

Tuesday, September 21, 2010

Khakasian Khlimate

The climate in Khakasia, from what I could gather off the internet is no different than home.  Continental, which is hot and dry in summer and cold and dry in winter.  Well, OK, dry was not a word applicable to this summer at home in dear old Saskatchewan but you get he picture.

Precip is a bit different in pattern as they get more in July through October than we do and much less in winter, though I only have one data source.  Once I get there I will have data from several villages where it is kept religiously but does not appear on official internet weather sites.

Mean Monthly Temperatures Khakasia and Saskatchewan
Mean monthly precipitation Khakasia and Saskatchewan
It would appear that the winters are even milder than Saskatchewan in some locations in Khakasia and summers slightly warmer.  These are 30 year averages.  Now when you get to Chita on the east side of Lake Baikal, there it gets COLD.  Summer temps same as Sask but winter temps are 10C colder on average.  Chita was where the Tsar banished the surviving Decembrists of 1825.  Lenin was also supposed to go there but was able to use his influence to get reassigned to Sushenskoye in Khakasia.

Monday, September 20, 2010

Beautiful Khakasia 2


Here are some landscape pictures of Khakasia which Tanya and I took back in early June of 2006.  It has everything - mountains, foothills, rugged hills and rocky outcroppings and flat land between the hills.  No great sweeps of flat land like the prairies, though. 

Horse bands likely belonging to native Khakasians
Herefords of Canadian breeding grazing early pasture
Cropping is 50:50 summerfallow to conserve moisture
with all the salinity problems to go with it
Flat plains always end at a ridge of hills, they don't go on forever
Small fields among trees and grass
Good grazing and rugged hills
Light soil, lots of sandy areas
Village outside Turim
Turim was a "company town" beside a huge copper mine.  When the mine gave out, so did the city.  It is pretty much deserted now.  You could buy a 5 floor block of flats for a dollar, I expect.

Sunday, September 5, 2010

Ancient and Historical Khakasia

The Asian grasslands, which includes much of Kazakhstan, Mongolia and central Siberia were settled long ago and have a very rich archaeological history.  Khakasia is no exception. I always maintain the reason that the Asian steppes were the progenitors of so many modern peoples is that there was nothing to do there but fight and flirt and in winter it was too cold to fight.

When Tanya and I were there in 2006, we did a one day tour of sites with the head of the Archaeology Department from the University, a native Khakasian.   Igor Tashtandinov had been born in Tanya's village of Kalyagino and his mother was best friends with Tanya's mother, though he and Tanya had never met.

Igor and Tanya 2006
Archaeological sites go back 10,000 years at least.  The most  recent peoples were the Kyrgyz who were over run by the Mongolians some 800 years ago and most drifted to modern Kyrgyzstan.  Today's Khkasians are decendants of the Kyrgiz who stayed behind.

10,000 year old rock drawings
More 10,000 year old drawings
Sketches of rock drawings in Abakan Museum

3,000 years old.  Food offerings were poked into the hole in the rock.
Over 200,000 kurgans dot the plains and hills of Khakasia
A large mound kurgan
Kurgan cross section, Abakan museum
Early people of the Steppes
Female fertility stele
Male strength stele
Archaeological dig of a palace, possibly of a Chinese general from the Han dynasty era who defected to the Xiongnu
Model of the 2000 year old palace, Abakan museum
I'll post some landscape pictures next time.

Sunday, August 29, 2010

Shushenskoye Museum


Sushenskoye is the village in the Sayan mountains just on the edge of Khakasia where Lenin was exiled from 1897 to 1900. He received an allowance and spent his time hunting and writing seditious literature at which he was never caught. Though his bookshelf was raided by the police, they got bored after the first few shelves and did not look at the remaining two shelves which contained enough illegal books to have warranted very severe punishment.

The village was declared a museum in 1940 and every self respecting Russian visited it.  Even today, it gets a few thousand visitors a year, especially with a new ethnic music festival.  The mountains around it are beautiful and the Sayano-Shushenkaya Dam and Hydro-Electric Station is not far from it.

Tanya took me to visit the village in 2006 when these pictures were taken.

House where Lenin lived
Typical late 19th century Siberian village
Woodworking shop
Hand cranked wood lathe
Wagon typical of those in use in rural villages
Lenin's desk and bookshelves
Lenin and his wife had separate beds which was normal for upper class Russians.
Dry goods shop in the village
Another shot of the dry goods shop
Tavern.  The keg was filled with vodka
Oven/cook stove in a poor cobbler's home
Cobbler's bench with wooden lasts
The biggest house in town: merchant, landowner, gentry of some sort